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Santa Fe Trail
Through Kansas - Page 9 |
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Cimarron Branch
of the Santa Fe Trail
The Cimarron Route was shorter and
faster than the Mountain Route, but the easternmost 50 to 60
miles of the route crossed a dry and rugged land that was
called La Jornada (The Journey), because there was
almost no water. This was the original route from Missouri to
Santa Fe.
Haskell County
The Cimarron branch of the
Santa Fe Trail
entered Haskell County near the northeast corner and passed
southwest between the now extinct towns of Ivanhoe and Santa
Fe. A marker is situated north of the abandoned townsite of
Santa Fe near the Ivanhoe Cemetery. The trail then continued
on southwest moving out of the county midway of its western
border. Wild Horse Lake was to the north of the trail, but
there were no important stopping places along its 27 mile
course in the county.
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Cimarron Branch of the
Santa Fe Trail,
courtesy
National Park Service.
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Grant
County
The trail entered Grant
County midway of its eastern boundary and continued its
southwesterly course, crossed the North Fork of the
Cimarron River
and passed on to the well-known "Lower Springs," later known
as the "Wagon Bed Spring," on the main
Cimarron River.
This stopping-place was in the extreme south part of the
county, near the old townsite of Zionville, and was the point
on the
Cimarron River
to which it joined with the route to the Upper Crossing and
Chouteau Island in Kearny County.
Wagon Bed Spring was a welcome
oasis as pioneers traveling on the Cimarron Cutoff from Gray
County had passed some 60 miles between the
Arkansas River
and the spring. Known as the “Jornada,” the stretch was a
perilous route for people and animals in dry seasons when
wagon trains often ran out of water. Here also fierce Plains Indians
frequently attacked and plundered the caravans.
Near Wagon Bed Spring, the noted
Western explorer and fur trader, Jedediah Smith, was lost for
four days without water in 1831. Just as neared the river, he
was was killed by
Comanche Indians.
Wagon Bed Spring, is on the
north bank of the
Cimarron River
about 11 miles south and 1/2 miles west of
Ulysses,
Kansas.
The site can be accessed and the Wagon Bed Springs Chapter has
set up a display near the original Lower Springs location,
which depicts the way the Springs looked in Trail days. Many
trail ruts can be seen in the area.

Wagon Bed Spring in Grant County,
Kansas, Kathy Weiser, September, 2008.
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Stevens County
Through Stevens County the
trail paralleled the
Cimarron River
in its course through the northwest part of the county, but
there were no important camping places or landmarks. In their
travels, pioneers sometimes kept fairly close to the river,
but at times were several miles away; hence there were really
two routes - the "river" and the "upland."
Morton
County
Morton County has some
thirty miles of the old trail within its borders. Entering the
county about eight miles south of its northeast corner, the
trail continued along the
Cimarron River
until it came to the Middle or Cimarron Spring situated about
nine miles north of present-day Elkhart,
Kansas.
After Wagon Bed (or Lower Spring), Middle Spring was the next
reliable water source for travelers in the Cimarron Valley.
This made it a major stopping point and a campsite on the
Santa
Santa Fe Trail.
The site can be accessed by traveling 8 miles north of Elkhart
on Kansas Highway 27, and about 1 mile west on a dirt road
through Cimarron National Grassland to a small enclosed park
on the north side of the road.
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The trail then made its way to
yet another site called Point of Rocks, situated today in
the Cimarron National Grassland. This site was a lookout
along the Cimarron Valley for both Indians
and traders, with one branch of the Trail running between
the rock and the river. This landmark is still surrounded
by grasslands, where wagon ruts can be seen. It is located
just about ˝ mile west of the Middle Spring.
The trail continued through
Morton County, passing out of the county about about seven
miles north of the southwest corner. The Cimarron Route of
the
Santa Fe Trail,
after leaving the present boundaries of
Kansas
continued to follow the
Cimarron River,
first on one side of the stream, and then on the other,
through the present states of
Colorado and
Oklahoma, for
a distance of some sixty or sixty-five miles, when it
entered the northeast corner of
New Mexico.
Compiled and edited by
Kathy Weiser/Legends
of Kansas, updated February, 2010.
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“Having
neglected to carry water with us, we were compelled to do
without it for two days and nights after leaving the
Arkansas river, and when we did come to a cool, sparkling
stream, both animals and men were almost to the point of
perishing.”
-- Milton E. Bryan, on the Jornada, 1828
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