Pawnee Fork Crossings near Larned, Kansas, photo courtesy National Park Service.

Wet Route in Pawnee County

This route closely follows US Highway 56 along the Arkansas River to the southwest out of Larned, Kansas to present-day Kinsley, where it follows the Arkansas River to Dodge City, Kansas and continues on to Bent's Fort, Colorado. From Dodge City, westward, this was referred to as the “Mountain Route.”

The first stop along the West Route was Ash Creek Crossing about five miles southwest of Pawnee Rock. This was not a difficult crossing, but nonetheless it developed into a campsite for Trail travelers. Decades later, the farmer who owned the Ash Creek Crossing filled in the crossing for more farm ground in 1947.

After traveling about another six miles, the pioneers came present-day Larned, Kansas. Here is Sibley’s Camp, where the United States Survey team, led by George Sibley, camped on the Santa Fe Trail Survey Expedition on August 31, 1825. The historic campsite is located at 502 West 2nd Street.

They continued along the north bank of the Arkansas River where they were required to cross the Pawnee Fork, located near the U.S. Highway 56 bridge crossing Pawnee River. Railroad and highway construction have long since destroyed the original site, but its steep banks can still be seen, testifying to the fact that it was one of the most difficult crossings on the trail. In the past the east bank was some 20-30 feet above the water and while the west bank wasn’t nearly so steep, it still required additional men and teams to help pull the wagons up.

The Wet Route continued to Coon Creek Crossing about 1 ½ miles west of Garfield, Kansas, located on the north side of U.S. Highway 56, east of Coon Creek Bridge. The crossing could sometimes be difficult and was situated in an area of hostile Indian activity, as evidenced by the battle sites that follow. Wagon ruts are still visible on the north bank of the creek.

Dry Route in Pawnee County

The Original Dry Route branched from the Wet Route about 3.5 miles southwest of Pawnee Fork Crossing at the southwest corner of Larned, Kansas on US 56. This route went across the a dry ridge to the north of Garfield and Kinsley, Kansas to another Coon Creek Crossing. It then traveled to the north of present day Offerle, Kansas on to present-day Dodge City, Kansas. A later Dry Route began in southwest of Pawnee Rock and ran north of present-day Larned to the west edge of the present Larned State Hospital grounds before making its way to Dodge City.

The Dry Route traveled along the north side of Pawnee River, passing the Santa Fe Trail Center today. Located two miles west of Larned on the south side of Kansas Highway 156, this unique museum, library, and educational institution is devoted to the interpretation the Santa Fe Trail. It preserves artifacts and manuscripts related to the blending of the major cultures along the Trail and features interpretive exhibits, learning programs and resource materials. The outdoor portion of the museum includes a sod house, schoolhouse, and dugout.

The Pawnee Fork Crossing of the Dry Route is located on the west edge of Larned State Hospital grounds. It can still be seen and crossed along a small bridge. This crossing too was sometimes difficult and a campsite was established here. There was also a mail and stage station was located at this crossing in 1859, which led to the establishment of Fort Larned, first located nearer this crossing than the present military post.

Just west of the crossing was a trading post called Boyd's Ranch, which was just off the Fort Larned Military Reservation and thus could provide off-post entertainment in the form of liquor, gambling, and prostitutes. The bulk of the trail traffic likely used the dry route crossing where Boyd's Ranch was located.

The route continued through Pawnee County past the Rock Hollow Campsite named for a nearby outcropping of sandstone. The trail then continued into Edwards County.

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