A little later,
Estevan sent another cross by a messenger who gave a more specific account of
the seven cities, and Father Marcos determined to visit Cibola for the purpose
of verifying the statements of the messengers. He left Vapaca on April 8th,
expecting to meet Estevan at the village from which the second cross was sent,
but upon arriving there, he learned that the black man had gone on northward
toward Cibola, which was a thirty days' journey. The friar continued on his way
until he met an inhabitant of Cibola, who informed him that Estevan had been put
to death by order of the Cibolan chiefs. From the top of a hill Marcos obtained
a view of the city, after which he hastened back to Compostela and made a report
of his investigations to Governor Coronado.
The immediate effect
of his report, in which he stated that the city he saw from the top of the hill
was "larger than the city of Mexico," was to awaken the curiosity of the people
of New Spain and create a desire to visit the newly discovered region. In
response to this sentiment, Mendoza issued an order for a force to assemble at
Compostela, ready to march to Cibola in the spring of 1540. Arms, horses and
supplies were collected and the greater part of the winter was spent in
preparations. In casting about for a leader, the viceroy's choice fell on
Governor Coronado.
In addition to the 300
Spaniards, there were from 800 to 1,000 Indians. Of the Spaniards about 260 rode
horses, while 60 marched along with the some 1,000 Indians. They were equipped
with 6 swivel guns, more than 1,000 spare horses, and a large number of sheep
and swine.
On February 23, 1540,
Coronado left Compostela with his army and reached Culiacan late in March. Here,
the expedition rested until April 22nd, when the real march to the "Seven
Cities" began. Coronado followed the coast, bearing off to the left," and in
June entered the White Mountain Apache country of Arizona. Mendoza, believing
the destination of the expedition to be somewhere near the coast, sent from
Natividad, two ships, under command of Pedro d'Alarcon, to take to Xalisco all
the soldiers and supplies the command could not carry.
As the expedition
advanced, detachments were sent out in various directions to explore the
country. In June, Coronado reached the valley of the Corazones -- so named by
Cabeça de Vaca because the natives there offered him the hearts of animals for
food. Here, the army built the town of San Hieronimo de los Corazones (St.
Jerome of the Hearts), and then moved on toward Cibola. There has been
considerable speculation as to the location of the fabled "Seven Cities," but it
was thought to have been the site of the Zuni pueblos in the western part of New
Mexico.
On July 7, 1540,
Coronado captured the first city, the Pueblo of Hawikuh, which he named Granada.
After the capture of this place the Indians retired to their stronghold on
Thunder Mountain. Coronado reconnoitered and on August 3rd dispatched Juan
Gallego with a letter to Mendoza, advising him of the progress and achievements
of the expedition.
The army went into
winter quarters at Tiguex, near the present city of Albuquerque, New Mexico and
during the winter subjugated the hostile natives in the pueblos of the Rio
Grande River. While at Tiguex Coronado heard from one of the plains Indians, a
slave in the village of Cicuye, the stories about
Quivira.
This Indian, whom the Spaniards called "The Turk," told them his masters had
instructed him to lead them to certain barren plains, where water and food could
not be obtained, and leave them there to perish, or, if they succeeded in
finding their way back they would be so weakened as to fall an easy prey.
George Parker Winship,
in his 1896 book, The Coronado Expedition, said:
"The
Turk may have accompanied Alvarado on the first visit to the great plains, and
he doubtless told the white men about his distant home and the roving life on
the prairies. It was later, when the Spaniards began to question him about
nations and rulers, gold and treasures, that he received, perhaps from the
Spaniards themselves, the hints which led him to tell them what they were
rejoiced to hear, and to develop the fanciful pictures which appealed so
forcibly to all the desires of his hearers. The Turk, we cannot doubt, told the
Spaniards many things which were not true. But in trying to trace these early
dealings of the Europeans with the American aborigines, we must never forget how
much may be explained by the possibilities of misrepresentation on the part of
the white men, who so often heard of what they wished to find, and who learned,
very gradually and in the end very imperfectly, to understand only a few of
their native languages and dialects . . . . Much of what the Turk said was very
likely true the first time he said it, although the memories of home were
heightened, no doubt, by absence and distance. Moreover, Castaneda, who is the
chief source for the stories of gold and lordly kings which are said to have
been told by the Turk, in all probability did not know anything more than the
reports of what the Turk was telling to the superior officers, which were passed
about among the common foot soldiers. The present narrative (Castenada's) has
already shown the wonderful power of gossip, and when it is gossip recorded
twenty years afterward, we may properly be cautious in believing it."
Whatever the nature of
the stories told by the Turk, they influenced Coronado to undertake an
expedition to the province of
Quivira.
On April 10, 1541, he wrote from Tigeux to the king. That letter has been lost,
but it no doubt contained a review of the information he had received concerning
Quivira
and an announcement of his determination to visit the province. The trusted
messenger, Juan Gallego, was sent back to the Corazones for reinforcements, but
found the town of San Hieronomo almost deserted. He then hastened to Mexico,
where he raised a small body of recruits, with which he met Coronado as the
latter was returning from
Quivira.
On April 23, 1541,
guided by the Turk, Coronado left Tiguex, taking with him every member of his
army who was present at the time. The march was first to Sicuye (the Pecos
Pueblo), a fortified village five days distant from Tiguex. From this point, the
route followed by the expedition has been the subject of considerable
discussion.
General J.H. Simpson,
who devoted much time and study to the Spanish explorations of the southwest,
prepared a map of the Coronado Expedition, showing that he crossed the Canadian
River near the boundary between the present counties of Mora and San Miguel in
New Mexico, thence north to a point about half-way between the Arkansas and
Canadian Rivers, and almost to the present line dividing Colorado and New
Mexico. There, the course changed to the northeast and continued in that general
direction to a tributary of the Arkansas River, about 50 miles west of Wichita,
Kansas.
A.F.A. Bandelier, in
his 1893 book, Gilded Man, said the general direction from Cicuye was
northeast, and that "on the fourth day he crossed a river that was so deep that
they had to throw a bridge across it. This was perhaps the Rio de Mora, and not,
as I formerly thought, the Little Gallinas River, which flows by Las Vegas [New
Mexico.] But it was more probably the Canadian River, into which the Mora
empties." The same writer, in his reports of the Hemenway Archaelogical
Expedition, said that after crossing the river Coronado moved northeast for
twenty days, when the course was changed to almost east until he reached a
stream "which flowed in the bottom of a broad and deep ravine, where the army
divided, Coronado, with 30 picked horsemen, going north and the remainder of the
force returning to Mexico.
Frederick W. Hodge's map, in his 1907 book,
Spanish Explorations in the Southern United States, shows the course of
the expedition to be southeast from Cicuye to the crossing of the Canadian
River; thence east and southeast to the headwaters of the Colorado River in
Texas, where the division of the army took place.
George Parker Winship, in his 1896 book, The Coronado Expedition, goes a
little more into detail than any of the other writers, saying: "The two texts of
the Relacion del Suceso differ on a vital point; but in spite of this fact, I am
inclined to accept the evidence of this anonymous document as the most reliable
testimony concerning the direction of the army's march. According to this, the
Spaniards traveled due east across the plains for 100 leagues (265 miles) and
then 50 leagues either south or southeast. The latter is the reading I should
prefer to adopt, because it accommodates the other details somewhat better. This
took them to the point of separation, which can hardly have been south of the
Red river, and was much more likely somewhere along the north fork of the
Canadian, not far above its junction with the main stream."
At the time the army
divided in May, Coronado reckoned that he was 250 leagues from Tiguex. The
reasons for the separation were the scarcity of food for the men and the
weakened condition of many of the horses, which were unable to continue the
march. During the march to this point, a native kept insisting that the Turk was
lying, and the Indians whom they met failed to corroborate the Turk's account.
Coronado's suspicions were finally aroused. He sent for the Turk, questioned him
closely, and made him confess that he had been untruthful. The Indian still
maintained, however, that
Quivira
existed, though not as he had described it. From the time the army divided, all
accounts agree that Coronado and his 30 selected men went due north to a large
stream, which they crossed and descended in a northeasterly direction for some
distance, and then, continuing their course, soon came to the southern border of
Quivira.
George Parker
Winship said that the army returned due west to the Pecos River, "while Coronado
rode north 'by the needle.' From these premises, which are broad enough to be
safe, I should be inclined to doubt if Coronado went much beyond the southern
branch of the Kansas River, even if he reached that stream."
The "large stream"
mentioned in the relations is believed to have been the Arkansas River, which
the expedition crossed somewhere near present-day Dodge City, Kansas, then
followed down the left bank to the vicinity of Great Bend, where the river
changes its course, while Coronado proceeded in almost a straight line to the
neighborhood of Junction City. At the limit of his journey he set up a cross
bearing the inscription: "Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, commander of an
expedition, arrived at this place."
Toward the latter part
of August, Coronado left Quivira
and started on his return trip. On October 20th he was back in Tiguex, where he
wrote his report to the king. The army wintered again at Tiguex and in the
spring of 1542 started for New Spain, where they arrived the following fall. His
report to the viceroy was coldly received, which seems to have piqued the
gallant captain general, as soon afterward he resigned his position as governor
of New Galicia and retired to his estate. True, his expedition was a failure, so
far as finding gold and silver was concerned, but the failure was not the fault
of the commander. On the other hand, the Spaniards gained accurate geographical
information -- accurate at least for that day -- of a large section of the
interior of the continent.
Mota Padilla's
account, written in 1742 from records left by Pedro de Tobar at Culiacan, said
of the failure: "It was most likely the chastisement of God that riches were not
found on this expedition, because, when this ought to have been the secondary
object of the expedition, and the conversion of all those heathen their first
aim, they bartered fate and struggled after the secondary; and thus the
misfortune is not so much that all those labors were without fruit, but the
worst is that such a number of souls have remained in their blindness."
Four priests started
with the expedition, including Father Marcos, who had previously been sent out
to find the seven cities of Cibola, Juan de Padilla, Luis de Ubeda and Juan de
la Cruz. Father Marcos returned to Mexico with Juan Gallego in August, 1541, and
was not again mentioned in connection with the expedition. The other three
friars remained as missionaries among the Indians, by whom they were killed.
Father Padilla was killed in Quivira;
Father Cruz at Tiguex, and Father Ubeda at Cicuye.
Following the
narratives of Castaneda and Jaramillo and the Relacion del Suceso, it is
comparatively easy to distinguish certain landmarks which seem to establish
conclusively the fact that the terminus of Coronado's expedition was somewhere
in central or northeastern Kansas. The first of these landmarks is the crossing
of the Arkansas River, near where the crossing of the Santa Fe Trail was
afterward established. The second is the three days' march along the north bank
of that stream to where the river changes its course. The next is the southwest
border of
Quivira,
where Coronado first saw the hills along the Smoky Hill River, and another is
the ravines mentioned by Castaneda as forming the eastern boundary of
Quivira,
which corresponds to the surface of the country about Fort Riley and Junction
City. In addition to these landmarks, there have been found in southwestern
Kansas several relics of Spanish origin. Professor J. A. Udden, of Bethany
College, found in a mound near Lindsborg, a fragment of Spanish chain mail. W.F.
Richey, of Harveyville, Kansas, presented to the State Historical Society a
sword found in Finney County bearing a Spanish motto and the name of Juan
Gallego near the hilt. Richey also reported the finding of another sword
in Greeley County -- a two-edged sword of the style of the Spanish rapier of the
16th century. And, near Lindsborg, were found the iron portion of a Spanish
bridle and a bar of lead marked with a Spanish brand. In the light of all this
circumstantial evidence, it is almost certain that Coronado's expedition
terminated somewhere near the junction of the Smoky Hill and Republican Rivers.
One sad feature of the
expedition was the fate of the Turk, whom Coronado put to death upon finding
that the Indian had misled him, although the poor native's state of mind had no
doubt been encouraged, if not actually inspired by the covetousness of the
Spanish soldiers.